The Struggle of Small Brands in Today's Fashion Industry
In an exclusive interview, Jonny Johansson, the visionary founder of Acne Studios, shares his insights on the evolving fashion landscape and the challenges faced by small brands in the modern era. With the brand's 30th anniversary on the horizon, Johansson reflects on the journey from a niche denim label to a global fashion powerhouse.
Acne Studios' success story began in Stockholm in 1996, and since then, it has expanded its reach with stores worldwide, including a recent opening in Chengdu, China. The brand's new Paris headquarters, housed in a converted laboratory, serves as a testament to its commitment to collaboration and artistic expression.
"It's about bringing together diverse talents and having a dialogue," Johansson explains. "We don't merely showcase art; we collaborate with artists, ensuring our spaces are more than just offices."
But here's where it gets controversial... Johansson's approach to design and collaboration goes beyond aesthetics. He believes in the power of openness and curiosity, a philosophy that sets Acne Studios apart from the pretentiousness often associated with the fashion industry.
"Openness is key. We strive for transparency," he asserts. "Fashion should be playful, a platform for exchanging ideas and fostering collaboration."
And this is the part most people miss... Johansson's journey as a designer is unique. His background in music and art has influenced his design ethos, and he doesn't believe celebrity status enhances his designs.
"Celebrity doesn't make me create better clothing," he says. "It's about the passion and the process."
The fashion industry has evolved significantly since Acne Studios' inception, with social media and influencers playing a pivotal role. However, Johansson maintains a low-key presence, focusing on the brand's essence rather than personal celebrity.
But here's the twist... Johansson acknowledges that the rise of social media has made it more challenging for small brands to establish themselves. The market consolidation of smaller fashion houses under large corporations has created a complex landscape for new brands to navigate.
"It's tougher for small brands today. Starting up and managing sales is more complicated now," he observes. "The industry structure has changed, and that impacts how we approach fashion."
Acne Studios' foray into furniture design showcases Johansson's versatility. While he appreciates the art of furniture-making, he also acknowledges the challenges it presents.
"Furniture design is both a love and a challenge. It requires a different perspective compared to garment-making," he says. "But I enjoy the process, and it's fascinating to see our furniture pieces become iconic representations of a specific era."
Today, Acne Studios aims to be a progressive luxury brand that addresses the pressing issues of our time, with sustainability at the forefront.
"Sustainability is a personal mission. It's about honouring our work and striving to be better humans," Johansson emphasizes. "It's not just about customer demand; it's a moral obligation."
And this is where the conversation gets interesting... Johansson believes that sustainability should be a top priority for all fashion designers. He challenges the industry to embrace sustainable practices, even if it means rethinking traditional approaches.
"We're not perfect, but we've come a long way in a decade. I'm proud of our progress, and we continue to strive for excellence in sustainability."
As Acne Studios approaches its 30th anniversary, Johansson's focus is on refining the brand, narrowing its product range to enhance its impact.
"We have a solid foundation. Now, we're sharpening our focus, creating fewer, better pieces. It's an exciting process of evolution."
What do you think? Is sustainability a personal mission or a response to consumer demand? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
